Inside Mexico’s ‘Naked’ Wine Revolution

It’s midday and I’m sitting in MeroToro restaurant in Mexico City, hearing Chilean (by way of Burgundy) winemaker Louis-Antoine Luyt introduce the concept of natural wines to MeroToro’s enthusiastic wait staff, including the wines he’s making in Tecate with Jair Téllez, MeroToro’s chef, at the Bichi winery. Many of the waiters tell me they’d never drunk wine before they started working here. After all, as Luyt explains, “historically, there’s been no culture of drinking wine with food in Mexico.”