Dark days turn noir

Mount Gambier is best known for its Blue Lake and as home of the 19th-century poet Adam Lindsay Gordon. It’s less known for its wine. Situated in a rather remote spot on the Princes Highway half-way between Melbourne and Adelaide, it’s also our most recent geographical indication. Mount Gambier will probably be the last GI for some time: authorities have put the cost of wine regions applying for a new GI up to $27,500.Timing is everything, and Mount Gambier’s late beginning as a wine region has held back its development, writes Huon Hooke in the Sydney Morning Herald.