One variety the spice of life

Katharina Prum is the current vintage – if I can put it that way – of a revered Mosel Valley estate that makes some of the finest Riesling in the world. Joh Jos Prum is affectionately known to wine lovers as J.J. Prum, and Katharina is the great-granddaughter of the founder, J.J. She’s a straight-shooter: there’s none of the hyperbole you find with a lot of wine people. She is a doctor of law who never practised law – just like her father, Manfred, now in his 70s. They make the wine together, writes Huon Hooke in the Sydney Morning Herald.