Making biodynamic wine in Bordeaux

THE first time I saw a draft horse in a Bordeaux vineyard I thought it was a PR stunt. Call me a cynic, but I was convinced that when the journalists left, the horses would be sent straight back to whichever farm they came from. I hate to admit it, but in the case of Château Pontet-Canet I was wrong. Every April I visit this small corner of Pauillac, just south of Château Mouton-Rothschild, to taste the latest vintage.