Traditional beer companies are copying craft brewers, but the wine industry isn’t interested

Imagine this scenario: You’re sitting at the dark mahogany counter of a craft brewpub. Exposed bulbs are dangling from a thatched roof, aluminium pipes snaking across brick walls to red copper conditioning tanks. The building is a repurposed garage, and the doors open onto the outdoor seating area strung with fairy lights. On the handwritten 20-by-10-foot blackboard, you have more than three dozen choices, but it’s clear what you’re not going to get at a pub like this.