Hunter Semillon: In a league of its own

Is there an Australian wine that’s more unique – or undervalued – than Hunter Valley Semillon? James Halliday reveals why this changeable white should be a national treasure. It’s tempting to say the climate of the Hunter Valley is utterly unsuited to viticulture because it suffers days of searing heat alternating with torrential rain. Vintages such as 2012 and (potentially) 2016 support that view, but 2011, ’13 and ’14 were very good to great: 2014 is considered to be the best since 1965.